DODGE THE
WINTER DOLDRUMS
IN DENVER
Enjoy a mini-vacation
without leaving town
By BONNIE MCCUNE
Winter doldrums got you down? Have you
run out of time or money to travel to exotic
Fiji or Cabo San Lucas?
Take heart. Plan a micro-vacation right in
Denver. Forty-eight or even 36 hours are ample time for a
complete change of pace, combining relaxation and stimulation
in a never-to-be-forgotten getaway.
The most intriguing way to build your weekend without
worry is by choosing a topic that interests you, perhaps a
hobby, a secret desire or an indulgence you've never
indulged in. You can create an experience you'll never forget.
Try one of these.
HISTORIC DENVER
Maybe you long for the days when men were men and
women were either madams or socialites. Then make your
theme historic Denver and the Old West. Your morning is best
spent at the Colorado Historical Society, 1300 Broadway,
(303) 866-3682, which grounds you in the entire state's past,
from the mountain men tangling with Native Americans,
through the various mining booms-and-busts and the people
who made the state what it is.
Lunch can be nowhere else but Denver’s oldest eatery, the
Buckhorn Exchange Restaurant, 1000 Osage St., (303) 534-9505. Study the stuffed trophies and memorabilia on display,
and choose from delicacies like elk, duck or the standard burger
and turkey while you enjoy the historic building and sturdy
Western furnishings.
Take it easy in the afternoon by getting involved with history
at the local level. The Molly Brown House, 1340 Grant
St., (303) 832-4092, is the perfect place to savor her opulent
surroundings and learn her story. Ostracized by Denver society,
she became an international favorite, studied languages
and saved boatloads of people from disaster.
Time for cocktails and a bite to eat. Scurry over to the historic
Brown Palace's venerable but casual Ship Tavern, 321
17th St., (303) 297-3111, the gathering place for movers and
shakers (men only until the 1960s) for decades. Dark but no
longer smoky, after Colorado's decision to join the pure of
lungs, the Ship Tavern instantly plunges you into the timeless
atmosphere of high-class bars and grills.
Open up that pocketbook long enough to shell out for the
historic Oxford Hotel, 1600 17th St., in LoDo, (303) 628-5400.
Selected by Hemispheres Magazine as one of "Colorado's
most romantic hotels," a member of Historic Hotels of
America and listed on the National Register of Historic Places,
the Oxford has played a central part in the city’s colorful past
since 1891. Prices for one of the 80 rooms decorated with
European antiques hover about $250.
The next day, since you’re close to Larimer Square, you might
as well spend the morning browsing the boutiques and stores.
The most Western is Cry Baby Ranch, 1421 Larimer Square, (303)
623-3979, an eclectic array of Western and Asian-influenced
items, heavily partial to the 1940s and ‘50s nostalgic cowboy.
Lunch at the Rocky Mountain Diner, 800 18th St., (303)
393-8383, in another historic landmark, the venerable Ghost
Building. The 1880s structure originally stood several blocks
away, was dismantled in 1974 and reconstructed a decade
later. The Diner serves homemade comfort food (lots of
mashed potatoes) at reasonable prices.
End your weekend at Four Mile Historic Park, a short
drive east to 715 S. Forest St., (720) 865-0800. Its 12 acres
include Denver’s oldest standing structure, a house dating
from 1858 that once was a stage stop and inn, plus pioneer
exhibits, special events and guided tours. In the winter, it is
open afternoons from Wednesday to Sunday.
URBAN ARTISTIC DENVER
What you love about Denver is ... the city! Then you can
delight in all the busy-ness and stimulation of throngs of people
and zooming vehicles that celebrate urban life.
Art is certainly a high point of a metropolis, and Denver is
no exception; so start on the first Friday of the month with
free art gallery openings (many with refreshments). Check
the newspapers for a list of locations.
The hallmark of the urban expert is the ability to hunt out a
good deal, so your hotel is the traditional, reasonably priced,
all-suite Burnsley Hotel on the edge of downtown, 1000 Grant
St., (303) 830-1000. A “European-style” facility, it offers
weekend rates for rooms as low as $120.
Continue your arts approach with breakfast the next morning
at Mona’s, 2364 15th St., (303) 455-4503. Named for the
huge picture of the Mona Lisa on the exterior wall, this place
has funky food at its best. Then on to the Denver Art
Museum, 100 W. 14th Ave. Parkway, (720) 865-5000.
If you haven’t yet visited the new Hamilton addition,
designed by Daniel Libeskind, start with this much-debated
geometric anomaly on the cityscape. The interior is as unusual
as the exterior and houses African, contemporary and
Western art, which definitely lacked space before the expansion.
First Saturdays offer free admission.
For lunch, drop in at Racine’s at 650 Sherman St., (303) 595-0418. Winner of numerous “best-of” awards, this centrally
located restaurant is THE meeting spot for power brokers.
You, however, are more interested in the changing exhibitions
of original art on the walls and the salads, pastas,
sandwiches and Southwestern items on the menu.
You don’t want to miss the newest of Denver’s visual art facilities— the Museum of Contemporary Art, 1485 Delgany, (303)
298-7554. While some say the new building designed by David
Adjaye initiates more conversation than the collections, MOCA is
a living testament to the power of vision and dedication.
You know you’ll be on the run through the evening, so take a
break in the late afternoon at the very best happy hour bargain
in the city. The Irish Snug, 1201 E. Colfax, (303) 839-1394, has
two-fer’s from 3 until 7 p.m. every single day, plus an extensive
menu of $3 appetizers. One will satisfy smaller appetites, while
two will stuff you. You can stay for live entertainment many
evenings, but you want a complete change of pace.
That’s El Chapultepec, 1962 Market St., (303) 295-9126, a
tiny, crowded survivor of urban renewal. All the greats and neargreats
in jazz have played here, along with many rockers, too.
There is never a cover charge in this bar/restaurant, but crowds
get enormous, so arrive early and expect to stand anyway.
DENVER FOR THE CHILD IN YOU
If you adore exercising your curiosity and have a wide-eyed
innocent view of the world, indulge yourself with a round of
activities that will leave you worn to a pleasurable nub.
First, head off to that hotbed of natural wonders, the
Denver Zoo in City Park (2300 Steele St., (303) 376-4873),
open every day of the year. Admission is several dollars
cheaper during the winter. Popular are Predator Ridge with a
view of Africa, the Tropical Discovery indoor rain forest and
the $2 miniature train ride. But look for any of your own
favorites, whether those include apes, birds or penguins. If
the weather’s chilly, you’ll want to wrap up well and even
carry an umbrella; but remember, animals don’t melt in poor
conditions, and neither will you.
You could spend the entire day at the zoo, but kids are always
hungry, so head for lunch. An option close to the zoo is Steve’s
Snappin’ Dogs at 3525 E. Colfax Ave., (303) 333-SNAP. Hot dogs
combine beef and pork with a smoky flavoring and run between
$3.15 and $4. They are nearly one-quarter pound and are served
on a fresh Coney-style bun with a variety of toppings.
Kids love toys, so don’t miss the Museum of Miniatures,
Dolls, and Toys, 1880 Gaylord St., (303) 322-1053. Permanent
exhibits include Japanese dolls, fully furnished miniature
houses, miniature trains, planes and cars, a miniature circus,
antique dolls and more.
Ready for another snack break? If you prefer ice cream to
iced daiquiris, try ice cream at Liks, 2039 E. 13th Ave., (303) 321-2370. Hand-made, Denver-based, and, frankly, a lot cheaper than the Marble Slab Creamery franchise.
Liks is open year-round, even in blizzards.
You’ve had your rest, and you’ve hardly
spent a princely sum, so take your extra
dollars over to Kazoo & Company, voted
the No. 1 toy store in Denver by 5280
Magazine. Specializing in educational and
unusual playthings, it’s located at 2930 E.
2nd Ave. in Cherry Creek North. Or if
magic is more your thing, trot a few feet
away to the Wizard’s Chest, 230 Fillmore
St., (303) 321-4304.
Indulge yourself in another childhood
favorite for dinner — pizza! Pasquini’s
Pizzeria has several locations. I prefer
1310 S. Broadway, (303) 744-0917.
Choose New York style, whole-wheat
crust or one of several other options.
Other Italian food is also available.
End your day snuggled up in a familyfriendly
hotel full of televisions and
microwaves for popcorn, like a Marriott
Residence Inn or Hampton Inn & Suites.
You’ll wake up next morning rarin’ to go
to another of kids’ favorites, the Museum
of Nature and Science, 2001 Colorado
Blvd., (303) 322-7009. The Museum’s
winter special exhibit is on gold.
Don’t miss the dinosaurs or the dioramas
or the view of City Park. Lunch is
that playground for adult kids, Dave &
Buster’s, where the motto is “Eat,
drink, play.” Located at 2000 S.
Colorado Blvd., (303)759-1515, in addition
to alcohol and food, they have a
mystery theater and numerous games
to play (you must buy tickets).
To end the day, visit a city park —
Stapleton’s new Central Park, City Park
or Washington Park. Romp and roar at
the playground just like the little kids.
NO RESTRICTIONS
Space limits my list of micro-vacation
themes. But exercise your own imagination.
The Denver Botanic Gardens
jumpstart a flowers-and-fauna theme.
Coors Field leads to a sports-oriented
series of activities.
What about “international Denver?”
Next time you’re ready for a weekend
break, pick a topic and go for it.
LAST WORDS
• Good general-interest books about
Denver and its history are Queen City
by Lyle Dorsett or Denver in Slices by
Louisa Arps.
• For a list of current events, try
www.denver.org or www.downtowndenver.com.
• Denver weather is temperamental.
Always take a jacket with you.
