TRAPPER’S CHOP
HOUSE
The sunset is only part of the appeal
By COLLEEN SMITH
Photography KIMBERLY DAWN
What do you get when you cross a former Denver Bronco Super Bowl MVP, a fourth-generation 4-H cowgirl and a longstanding American hotel chain?
Trapper’s Chop House.
No joke.
Situated on the fourth floor of the Holiday Inn Select Hotel in Parker, this restaurant is a formidable partnership between revered running back Terrell Davis and Toby Pippin, who brings Colorado cachet to the table.
Granted, unless you live in the southeastern reaches of metro Denver, you need to do a bit of an end run to get there. And I know what you’re wondering: A Holiday Inn eatery as a destination restaurant? It’s not what you think.
Ambiance scores big points at Trapper’s. Let’s face it: Tasteful surroundings always enhance delicious food. Throw in a pristine view, and you’ve got a winner for which it’s worth going a bit out of the way. And the restaurant has its own entrance, separate from the lobby, complete with a glass elevator that spirits diners to the fourth floor restaurant while giving them a preview of what they’ll see — which is a lot.
Anyone who has ever visited Key West knows the tradition of locals and tourists gathering to watch — and applaud — the setting sun. Witnessed from the windows of Trapper’s, Colorado sunsets can call for standing ovations. I don’t know of many places left in the metro area with more pleasant, unspoiled views. The dining room offers vistas of the jagged Front Range and the plains so wide open it’s almost like the view from at sea, when the waters run so wide you can almost detect the curve of the earth.
At Trapper’s, as you’re seated — especially if there’s still light in the sky — grab a seat facing the windows. That’s not difficult to do since the dining room walls have ample openings onto the Centennial State’s open prairie. From Trapper’s, you can see for miles and miles — all the way down to Pikes Peak, looming like a distant pyramid.
And to manage the low slant of the setting sun so that the rays don’t glare blindingly through the dining room, Trapper’s has translucent window shades to mute the spectacular light.
The view inside is fetching, too, at this outpost. Trapper’s, as you may have surmised from its rustic name, is not a white tablecloth restaurant. Neither does it bow to a kitschy Old West mining and trapping motif with creepy taxidermy, and none of that dusty old lace pseudo- Victorian stuff, either.
The dining room is too refined to be rustic, more comfortable than stuffy, warm with a fireplace and spacious booths surrounding wood tables lighted by the flicker of oil lamps surrounded by tiny polished pebbles. Rock figures into the rest of the restaurant, too, which amalgamates earthy colors and hammered copper, contemporary fabrics and curvilinear lines. Even the dinner plates are triangles with rounded points.
Artful glass pendant lamps add splashes of color
around the bar, where a behind-the-bar light display morphs constantly as if taking cues from the sunset. Trapper’s didn’t invest in a lot of art for the walls, and when the sun sets, you’ll understand why: Along with food and drink, the restaurant serves up sunsets framed like living oil paintings.
As the sky begins to darken, your heart begins to lighten, particularly if there’s a lively libation in hand to accompany the phenomenal natural fireworks. The Key Lime martini — vanilla vodka, lime juice and pineapple juice with a wedge of lime — will put you further in mind of Key West’s easy-as-pie ambiance. Or if your taste runs more toward something with pucker power, try JJ’s SweetTart — a blend of Ciroc vodka, lime juice, sweet and sour and cranberry juice shaken and served in a glass with a sugared rim.
Oenophiles will find a wide range of wines, with emphasis on the Charles Krug winery. Many wine list selections can be purchased in half bottles.
Out the windows, gossamer clouds of lavender and peach festooned the golden sky. As the sunset began in earnest, we broke bread — a sourdough loaf served on a board with a ramekin of whipped butter — no tearing soft bread with hard, cold butter pats here. The clouds gathered color as crab cakes were served. Trapper’s are more crab than cake and accompanied by capers, asparagus spears and a dollop of chipotle remoulade.
In June in Colorado, a truly tasty tomato is hard to come by, while a hard, flavorless tomato is easy to come by. In their caprese salad, Trapper’s manages to serve the former, teasing the tomato’s tang out with a judicious dash of balsamic vinaigrette.
Steaks arrive sizzling on hot volcanic stones, and the generous cuts of meat have the right tool for the job — a hefty but balanced steak knife. Even if you’re not carnivorous, you’ll find something to your taste on Trapper’s cork-clad menu. Side dishes are innovative: scalloped potatoes, roasted cauliflower gratin, a fricassee of veggies cooked not too crispy, not too soggy — as Goldilocks would say: juuust right.
The culinary and visual crescendo was still building, though, because it happened to be the week of the summer solstice, and not until 9 p.m. did the light show actually wrap up with tangerine scarves of light glowing like neon. In fact, our waiter, who hails from the Bay Area in California, paused to capture the event on his cell phone.
After the sun disappeared behind majestic purple mountains, dusk settled in, but Mother Nature wasn’t finished showing off, and neither was the chef.
The dessert menu tempted with a flourless chocolate torte served with roasted banana ice cream, but we caved into the crème brulee when the waiter proclaimed it “the best in Parker.” I’m not sure exactly how many Parker establishments serve crème brulee, but I have to believe he’s right in his claim. The custard hit the rich and creamy notes, and the caramelized topping and fresh berry coulis added sophistication to the comfort of this food — the adult version of vanilla pudding.
The chef also earned an “A” for the apple strudel. Stuffed with Granny Smiths and studded with nuts and raisins, the strip of pastry comes accompanied by scoops of cinnamon ice cream — a spicysweet, yin and yang delight of a dessert.
The truth is, a number of talented and ambitious chefs call metro Denver home, but the only way the Mile High City will continue to elevate its food scene is for people to support independent restaurants.
Besides which, Trapper’s is easily accessible off Parker Road or off E470 at Lincoln — meaning you can venture beyond your usual ‘hood, marvel at how much Denver has sprawled, and avoid the tollbooth. Also, outside Trapper’s, there’s plenty of free parking — a refreshing break from downtown or Cherry Creek North, right?
So get on the phone and make a reservation for a romantic dinner with somebody who could use a dose of romance. Life is short. Eat. Drink. Make merry. Applaud the sunset — or at least slow down long enough to notice it, and to best do so, situate yourself someplace ideal. Like Trapper’s.
Open at 5 p.m. daily. For more information, or to make reservations, visit www.trapperschophouse.com.
TRAPPER'S CHOP HOUSE
19308 Cottonwood Drive
Parker, Colo. 80138
(303) 248-2132
