ENCORE RESTAURANT
An American grill, timeless and elegant
Written by MICHELLE ONODA
Photography by KIMBERLY DAWN
Located on the corner of Colfax and Elizabeth in
Denver, adjacent to The Tattered Cover Book Store, is
an exciting, organic, eco-friendly restaurant known
as Encore. The tantalizing aroma of the restaurant’s
wood-burning oven fills the air, and the atmosphere is friendly,
lively and engaging.
Opened on the site of the old Lowenstein Theater, the building
sat empty for 20 years, and numerous attempts were made
to tear down the historic structure. Groups were formed to save
it, and a few years ago The Tattered Cover Book Store moved
into the area that once housed the actual theater.
In December 2007, Encore Restaurant opened in the space
that encompassed the dressing rooms, box office and administrative
offices. Co-owners Steve Whited and Sean Huggard,
who also serves as executive chef, believed this would be the
perfect setting for their new restaurant. When you step
through the glass doors to be greeted by the friendly hostess,
you are actually standing in the area of the original box office.
Efforts were made to preserve the integrity of the area, and
the original travertine counter still stands as testament to the
proud old structure. Today, some patrons like to wait for their
tables in the box-office lounge, as it has come to be known.
Proceeding into the main dining room, you see the original
sign from the Lowenstein Theater hanging on the wall. For
many longtime residents, these reminders conjure up pleasant
memories. The owners were excited to be part of the redevelopment
that has been taking place in this area, and the locals
are excited to have a neighborhood restaurant that has revitalized
the street and helped shape it as a cultural destination.
What makes Encore unique is not only the outstanding
food, which incorporates local organic produce whenever
possible, but also its commitment to the environment and
sustainable green practices. This even extends to the fabulous
wine list, which includes organic wines as part of its
green concept.
Excited to experience all the restaurant has to offer, I met a
group of friends on a warm summer’s evening. When we
arrived, we were escorted to the outside patio, where we
enjoyed a glass of chardonnay while perusing the menu. Our
personable waiter suggested we try an appetizer of the flatbread
pizza with prosciutto, fig jam and arugula, which proved
an excellent suggestion. The mixture of the warm bread combined
with the sweetness of the figs and the saltiness of the prosciutto
and arugula prepared our palates for our entrees.
Although we intended to order different entrees, we all
settled on the wood-fired halibut with mushroom confit,
with griddled asparagus topped with caper vinaigrette. The
halibut was slightly seared yet moist and flaky, and the
mushroom confit complemented the entree and enhanced
the culinary experience.
While our side dishes could have included seasonal vegetables,
the asparagus with caper vinaigrette sauce was outstanding.
Griddled to perfection and lightly seasoned, the
asparagus was so tender you could cut it with a fork.
When you visit Encore, make sure to order the french fries
with hot mustard. After the entrée, we were pleasantly full and
ready to adjourn, but our waiter made one last suggestion — a
seasonal key lime creme brûlée with a graham cracker crust.
We all shared the dessert, which was fresh and delicious.
The next day, I decided to try Encore for lunch. When I
arrived, I was greeted by Encore general manager Rob
Campbell, who graciously gave me a personal tour of the
restaurant and answered my questions.
As we made our way inside, he pointed out the stunning
bar, which is truly the centerpiece of the restaurant. Made of
stratified bamboo granite, the bar lures people to get up from
their tables just to touch it and comment on its uniqueness,
says Campbell. As a side note, the bar is host to one of
Denver’s best happy hours, which takes place Monday
through Friday beginning at 3:30 and features all wines on the
menu at half price.
The restaurant has also caught on as a popular place for
women, who are making it their dining choice for business
and casual lunches. Continuing on, Campbell explains that
the chairs were formerly cafeteria chairs purchased from the
Aspen Ski Corporation, and the tabletops were created
out of bleachers from the University of Northern
Colorado. He points out the private dining room with
the original stage doors that can be closed for privacy.
It is the perfect setting for a party, special event or
weekly business meeting.
To the left is the open kitchen, where I am introduced
to Chef Paul Reilly. Absent from the kitchen are
any heat lamps. Reilly explains that once a plate is
completed, it goes from the kitchen directly into the
hands of the server, who delivers it to the table to preserve
the freshness and flavor.
I asked Reilly to make a lunch suggestion, and he recommended
the Telluride jalapeño poppers filled with cream
cheese, resting on a thin layer of raspberry jam and wrapped
with apple-smoked bacon. The dish proved memorable and is
another reason I will visit Encore again and again.
For diners who want to enjoy a piece of Denver history
while enjoying a unique culinary experience, Encore is a wonderful
venue. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner
from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11
a.m. to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
Parking is available in the garage behind the Lowenstein
Complex.
ENCORE RESTAURANT
2550 E. Colfax Ave.
Denver, Colo. 80206
(303) 355-1112
www.encoreoncolfax.co
