THEIR HATS ARE
TALL AND WHITE
Meet women who’ve chosen the demanding roles of restaurant owner/executive chef
By KATHY SMITH
Photography KIMBERLY DAWN

There are a mere handful of women who fill the shoes of restaurant owner/executive chef, and for good reason — both jobs are time consuming and difficult. One thread unites all of these hard-working women: They have a passion for food and for their customers.

Jennifer Jasinski
Rioja
1431 Larimer St.
(303) 820-2282
www.riojadenver.com

Bistro Vendome
1424 Larimer St.
(303) 825-3232

Jennifer Jasinski grew up cooking — literally. From the age of 4, Jasinski baked her way through a Winnie-the- Pooh cookbook until she advanced to cooking for the family. Her single mother didn't have time to cook for the three Jasinski children, so cooking became a necessity for the young Jennifer. She says, "Well, I love to eat, so cooking was a natural outlet for me."

Jasinski developed another childhood talent, in music. She spent her elementary years mastering various woodwind instruments such as the clarinet, oboe and flute in hopes of a future career in fine arts, but ultimately opted not to join the ranks of starving artists. So it was an easy decision when Jasinski graduated from high school to choose culinary school.

Ever the enthusiast for learning, she wasn’t satisfied just to receive a culinary degree from the renowned Santa Barbara City College. She went for the gold and attended the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, NY, and she earned a certificate from both institutions before the age of 21.

Following her accreditation from CIA, she worked at the celebrated Rainbow Room in New York City. "I worked every job in the restaurant, including garde manger, where I did nothing but clean lettuce all day long," Jasinski reflects.

It was at the Rainbow Room that she had the opportunity to meet acclaimed chef Wolfgang Puck. Jasinski told Puck of her California heritage, and he invited her to look him up whenever she returned.

Jazzed to get back to the more laid-back California lifestyle, she did just that. But Puck didn't remember her, nor did he have any openings at the time. Not one to be discouraged, Jasinski landed a job at the famous Hotel Bel Air, where there was a restaurant that Puck managed.

It was a fateful day in 1990 that their paths crossed again, and this time Puck took notice and hired her. Jasinski recalls, "Whatever anyone wanted me to do, I did. I know that every job in a restaurant is important, and I wanted to learn how to do each job perfectly."

Working with the Wolfgang Puck Food Company afforded Jasinski many opportunities, not only in sous and executive chef positions, but also with a stint at the two-star Michelin restaurant Ledoyan in France. Her work with Puck spanned a decade of learning and confidence-building experiences.

It was a ski trip to Colorado with best friend Gina that gave her the desire to start a new life. "I wanted to prove that I could do something on my own in a place where nobody knew me, and see if I could succeed," she says. Contacted by a headhunter to run the kitchen at Panzano, Jasinski got just that opportunity.

With bags packed, she moved to Denver in 2000. It was at Panzano that she met general manager Beth Gruitch. It was a restaurant liaison made in heaven. The two worked steadfastly to put Panzano's name on Colorado's restaurant map. "We are a great team and work very well together," Jasinski says.

In fact, they worked so well together, early on they knew they ultimately wanted to be in business together. When a space opened up in trendy Larimer Square, the two contracted John Imbergamo to help with investors and the concept of Rioja. "Without John as a sounding board, we would have struggled a lot getting this restaurant opened," Jasinski admits.

Rioja opened in 2004 with accolades from everywhere, including the American Culinary Federation, which named Jasinski Colorado Chef of the Year. The concept of the restaurant is comfortable and inviting, with accessible d8Ecor and Mediterranean style food served Jen's way.

But success hasn't always been easy for Chef Jasinski. She reflects, "People don't always trust you when you're young, and they often don't expect a female to run the show." Just recently, a couple came up to a table where Jasinski and Gruitch stood with a male manager. The couple raved about the food to the manager, assuming he was the owner. Jasinski and Gruitch just chuckle as they retell the story. Somehow you know this isn't the first time that scene has occurred.

With Gruitch's attention to service and Jasinski's devotion to producing excellent food, the duo purchased their second restaurant, Bistro Vendome.

It's hard to imagine Jasinski has any spare time, but she always manages to give back to the community. She loves to teach and spends time working with Work Options for Women. Over the years, she's donated to fund-raisers too numerous to mention. Recently, she cooked at Jax Fish House for the Females on Fire, a charity benefiting aspiring female chefs.

Cyd Anderson and Rachel Woolcott
Aix
719 E. 17th Ave.
Denver 80203
(303) 831-1296
www.restaurantaix.com

Partners Cyd Anderson and Rachel Woolcott have been best friends since they met years ago through a mutual friend. Bonded by a love of cooking and golfing, the two always kept in close communication with each other, often while in different states.

This team is unique in that both partners are executive chefs and owners. They opened Aix in August 2001 and are as exuberant today about their business as they were on opening day.

Both chefs share a passion for cooking. Anderson grew up in a background similar to Jasinski's. With a single mother, Anderson and her sisters needed to learn how to cook a meal. "My mom took us to a bookstore to find cookbooks, and we all picked out something unique,” Anderson says. Martha chose one that had all quick and easy preparations, Karla leaned toward home-style cooking, and Anderson opted for more serious gourmet preparations.

So, at age 10, Anderson was already vested as the top family cook, having prepared a meal of manicotti from scratch. "As a family, we always cooked together, but this showed everyone my level of interest in making really good meals," she says proudly. Anderson went on to work in restaurants beginning at age 18 at the prestigious Quorum. She started busing tables and worked her way up to waiter and eventually to the flamb8E station.

Anderson entered the challenging culinary program at California Culinary Academy, where she sharpened her culinary skills in many cuisines, but focused on French as the cuisine she favors. Following stints at famous California restaurants and wineries, Anderson moved back to Denver to work in some of Colorado's most celebrated restaurants. Also, before opening Aix, she worked as a personal chef for five years with the Coors family.

Woolcott's culinary career is equally as impressive as Anderson's. Shortly after graduating from the University of Colorado, she moved to California to learn more about cooking and management. She landed a job at the Ritz-Carlton in Marina del Rey and worked closely with the executive chef.

In 1991, Woolcott moved back to Colorado and worked a brief season with Anderson at Arrowhead Country Club. She decided to expand her culinary skills and moved to the East Coast, where she worked for the next few years under the tutelage of chefs Lisa Martel and Jorge Ramirez.

Ever the wandering spirit, and searching for new opportunities, Woolcott found herself in Anderson's old stamping grounds — San Francisco. She delved into planning monthly wine dinners, special events and private catering, honing more management and marketing skills. But the desire to open and operate a restaurant was always in the back of her mind. She and Anderson talked and agreed the time was right, and Denver was the locale for their restaurant.

So began the journey in 1999 to define their business plan and find investors for their French-themed restaurant Aix, as in Aix-en-Provence.

Anderson and Woolcott hosted investors one night for a taste of their simple yet elegant Provencal-style cooking. Both chefs wanted guests to savor their special dishes. They turned their backs on the kitchen for one brief minute, which allowed Anderson's dog Lars to grab a whole tenderloin and run through the crowd. The investors roared. Fortunately, the cooks had another tenderloin ready to go, and the guests and Lars had a terrific time. What might have been a disaster turned out to be the story that brought a disparate group of people together.

Following the hosting parties, the two decided to finance the restaurant themselves. Aix opened August 2001, right before 9/11. Woolcott recalls, "It was a tough time for the country, and a lot of restaurants were hurt, but fortunately we managed to stay busy." The food and d8Ecor drew people from all over the city, and Aix continued to win recognitions every year. "We both have the same philosophy of Provence. We use the freshest ingredients, prepared with a simple French elegance, and let the flavors come through strongly," Anderson comments.

Five years later, Aix is still serving some of the original dishes prepared for opening day. But the menu has evolved. Woolcott points out, "We were one of the first restaurants doing small plates and also one of the few independent restaurants doing brunch."

The two enthusiastic women still smile broadly when talking about the business. Woolcott beams, "We are the happiest about the integrity of the business with the food, our wait staff and our customers." Anderson adds, "We thrive on treating people with respect and doing our jobs well.”

Overall, these women are most proud of the tremendous relationships they've built with customers. For many customers and other community members they open their restaurant and donate time and profits to local charities.

Pat Perry
Highland's Garden Caf8E
3927 W. 32nd Ave.
Denver 80212
(303) 458-5920

It isn't easy getting Pat Perry to talk about herself. She is humble, modest and quiet. But the restaurant she's built, the food she serves and her devotion to the community speak volumes about this petite woman.
Perry started cooking when she was a teacher in elementary school. "We had these potluck meals, and the microwave just came out, so I'd throw together some different recipes for the other teachers," she says. A few years into this, she turned her cooking into profit. She made food items and left them in the teachers’ lounge with a collection pot. It turned out to be a great success, and before she knew it, she was cooking for a lot of people.

But cooking wasn't really her passion at that time, just a hobby. Her real love was horses and animals. What she sought to become is a trainer for horses performing in shows.

As in life, one thing led to another, and she found herself agreeing to cater an event for 350 people. "Before I knew it, I was in the restaurant business with a small restaurant on Sixth Avenue," Perry reflects. Her initial venture, Today's Gourmet, was such a success that when she first opened, she would completely sell out of food every day. That success was a good thing and led to more opportunities for Perry.

"I am not a formally trained chef; I came about this through the back door, you might say," Perry comments. But one has to assume that her unquestionable restaurant success is because of her exceptional cooking.

The desire to own a Victorian style house/restaurant became a quest in the early ‘90s. Most of those homes are found in the Highland’s area, so Perry got to know the neighbors and business owners in an effort to find the perfect location. She found a house in 1994 and spent months working with architects and contractors to renovate the space. Staying true to her culinary style, she created a menu with home-style offerings. "I serve clean food with new flavors, food that is not complicated but allows you to feel good about what you are eating," she says.

Highland's Garden Caf8E opened with just seven tables, the same as Today's Gourmet. The press was elated with the ambience and food Perry created and she received numerous "best of" awards.

When an opportunity arose to purchase the house next door, Perry took it, and renovation of the second house began. Linking the two houses with patio dining in between was equally challenging. Everything wasn't always as perfectly run as it is today. The beautiful patio area, replete with dense trees, natural flora and urns with annuals, seats 50 comfortably. "It wasn't until we had the patio filled with people, and a big rainstorm hit, that we realized we hadn't thought of coverage as all 50 guests convened in the entryway," Perry says.

In fact, three expansions later, with seating of up to 100, Highland's Garden is one of the more logistically challenging restaurants to work in. There is seating upstairs, downstairs and outside, with many wait stations and kitchens. "It took a lot of planning to make sure food reached each table hot, but it works like clockwork now," says Perry.

She knows that to be competitive in this business, you have to reinvent yourself with the times. She is always trying to tweak concepts and stay ahead of the game. Her newest idea is a natural for this open, comfortable restaurant. Today Perry and community friends hold an artist/dining series each month. Perry explains, "I'd like people to view Highland's as a community center where people are linked through fine wine, dining and art."

Perry also gives back to the community by opening her restaurant to charities, especially those associated with animals. But it is giving another way that comes from Perry's heart. She says, "Giving to my employees is the best thing I do, because they earn it. We are a very close family."

Mary Nguyen
Parallel 17
1726 Franklin St.
Denver 80218
(303) 377-2604
www.parallelseventeen.com

Mary Nguyen's career was in international business until she abruptly left the industry to enter the foreign world of food.

Nguyen is a native Coloradoan and a first-generation American of Vietnamese descent. To say she is an overachiever may be the understatement of the year. She attended George Washington University and the University of Colorado, earning advanced degrees in economics and international affairs. She was recruited right out of college to work in investment banking, commodities trading and then mutual fund management.

But Nguyen had another business side. She loved to entertain. Growing up in a traditional Vietnamese house, where food was central to all family activities, she learned to enjoy eating and socializing. Her memories of childhood include visions, smells and tastes of her mother's and grandmother's cooking. It wasn't until she entered college that she tried her own hand at preparing and experimenting with food.

Often she invited friends over for parties and picked out recipes from cookbooks, or from the Internet, and experimented. Nguyen explains, "I just wanted to see if I could do it at first, and then I was completely into it." Some of her best recollections are of preparing Italian meals — then she tried Asian and knew that was her calling.

While working in the banking industry, she kept up with her culinary prowess and hosted elaborate dinner parties. As friends started lauding her efforts, her desire to stay in banking was waning. "I had this need to keep learning more cooking," she says. Nguyen started catering lunches on the side. When a friend asked her to cater a wedding party of 50, she jumped at the chance, and the rest is history.

She quit her day job, much to the dismay of friends and co-workers, and devoted her time to catering. The Asian food she cooked was primarily Japanese, but she didn't have the ability to do sushi. "I was so na95ve, I applied for a job as a sushi chef at Hapa, and the executive chef just looked at me in wonder," she recalls. She worked in the kitchen, but all she did was make rice.

When a sous chef position opened at the former Beehive, Nguyen applied and was turned down. But a few months later, the Beehive owner called and offered her a pantry position. She signed on immediately. "I truly didn't know anything about the restaurant business; I thought a pantry position was just putting groceries away," she says. Returning to Hapa, she mastered every kitchen position, even landing the coveted position of executive chef.

It was at Hapa that Nguyen ran into college friend Becky Miller. Miller's mother is Vietnamese, and her father is Jewish, so Miller was raised in a nontypical Vietnamese house. After college, Miller worked in international relations, where she learned a lot about fine dining. She also sold wine for a while until she landed a position in commercial real estate.

The two women met and realized the tremendous potential they had for a restaurant of their own. With Miller's access to commercial listings, she started the search for a building. Meanwhile, Nguyen was fine-tuning the business plan and creating the menu.

Their concept initially was to open a wine bar with a secondary focus on small plates of Vietnamese fusion food. When Miller found the building and they signed the lease, they had only six months to completely renovate the space.

The two women took on the project with gusto and opened the doors in 2005. Since then, the menu has evolved as the customers are coming for the food. "The overall concept hasn't changed in that we always wanted a place that bridged the gap between fine dining and relaxing in a comfortable bar environment," Nguyen says.

Today, the welcoming environment attracts people of all age groups seeking the explosive tastes of the regional cuisines of Vietnam — with a modern twist.

Like Jasinski, Nguyen is volunteering to cook with other local female chefs at the Females on Fire benefit. The proceeds go to a qualified female culinary student at Johnson and Wales Culinary Academy.

Terry Rippeto
Potager
1109 Ogden
Denver 80218
(303) 832-5788

Not only is the restaurant business in Terry Rippeto's blood, it's in her father's, too. Rippeto left home in Missouri to pursue a culinary degree from California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. Before she opened Potager — a joint venture with her father — she co-owned a restaurant in her home state with him.

After she finished culinary school, her wandering spirit and desire to perfect culinary skills led her across the country and overseas from Seattle to the Virgin Islands. Eventually her travels drew her to Colorado.

Denver seemed like an ideal location to open a restaurant, as it was central to her home and the coasts where she made many friends. She purchased a building in 1996 and went to work with her father to renovate the interior for her new restaurant, Potager, meaning kitchen garden.

They had their work cut out for them, as the building held two store fronts, one a Laundromat and the other a dry cleaner. "We filled four construction trash containers, and we were the only laborers," she says.

The concept of Potager was crystal clear to Rippeto: use fresh ingredients that are in season and use products from local growers. She says emphatically, "I believe in keeping money in the community I live in." Every week, Rippeto makes the trek to Boulder to buy from the local growers. Her menus change often, based on the fresh produce currently available. "I buy everything extremely fresh because that is a way of life I believe in," she declares. She also maintains gardens around the restaurant for growing herbs, annuals and perennials.

Asking Rippeto what she is most proud of in her business, she instantly replies, "My staff. They go above and beyond what I expect, and they do an excellent job." One of the rewards of having a great staff, Rippeto says, is the comfort in knowing they are self-sufficient.

Her relationship with her staff and local growers worked in sync one Thursday night when she closed the restaurant and they all went to one of the farms to help the farmers harvest for Saturday's market in Boulder. "It was a very rewarding and satisfying experience for all of us," says Rippeto. They are still talking about it today.